Maintaining a rose garden is really not a difficult task if you know what you are doing and the steps you are taking for the consideration. If you have planted roses before then you must have an idea but for beginners, some maintenance guidelines are as follows.

For maintaining a rose garden, you should always select the right kinds of rose plants as their seeds. If you are selecting the wrong ones from the beginning considering the type of soil and temperature you are implying, you would be at a loss which should be avoided on all terms. Most rose types at least require six to seven hours of sunlight and an overall temperature but with several multiple varieties this value could change as well. watering should be done well off as well because some varieties need plentiful of water that they could soak in for a while whereas some other kinds could go on for a few days without such an issue. Mulching is very necessary for the rose garden and if you provide it every now and then, your garden and plantation is going to remain healthy and attractive all along.

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Soil type and contents will project maintaining a rose garden better than all of the other steps because a fertile and green sort of soil is going to have all the possible nutrients that it should have for the plants to grow and develop well. The soil should be provided with the right amounts of fertilizers and compost as well to make it even better. Once the plants grow and blossom, pruning the branches and dead parts of the plants is also extremely important.

Certain plants will always play host to specific insects and it is possible to have orchids alongside many other plants. The pest will often be apparent on one plant before it spreads to others. For example, if fuchsias are grown with orchids, white fly will almost certainly be present; it will not attack the orchids but will be attracted to the fuchsias.

If you choose chemical insecticides to control pests, it is important that you follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Using insecticides stronger than recommended, mixing different types together or using old preparations that have been on the shelf for too long is not advisable. It is difficult and inappropriate to use insecticides in the home, where children or pets could be affected.

Over the years, many strong insecticides that were considered safe have been withdrawn and are no longer available. It is, therefore, important to use a non-chemical means of control whenever possible.

There are two ways of introducing pests into your orchid collection. One is by bringing in infected plants. Check over every orchid and all other plants new to the greenhouse. If in doubt, quarantine a plant for a while before introducing it to the rest of the collection. Buying from a reputable nursery does not always mean that the plants will be free from pests. Even in the best establishments there can lurk the odd red spider mite or mealy bug waiting to spread through a collection.

The other enemy is the garden surrounding the greenhouse, which will be full of natural pests. For example, aphids will breed happily throughout the summer on your roses and red spider mite may infest your apple trees in late summer. Most of these pests are tolerated in the garden, with the knowledge that the coming winter will drive them into hibernation and reduce their numbers drastically. However, this will not happen in a greenhouse. Ventilators or doors left open on a warm summer’s night will allow slugs and snails to enter the greenhouse.

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Cypripediums and paphiopedilums are very popular orchids in cultivation and those who grow one genus also grow the other. They are successful growing in the same conditions, although they come from totally different parts of the world. The cypripediums are the common link between the other two genera and are circumboreal, meaning they are found all around the top of the globe from the Arctic Circle downwards, across the American continent, Europe and Asia. They are opportunist plants when growing in extremely cold regions, with a short, fast growing season between long periods of cold. Paphiopedilums are found from southern China, through India, Thailand, the Malaysian Peninsula and on the many islands of Southeast Asia. Some of the most spectacular species come from Borneo and Sarawak. Phragmipediums are from central South America. Some of the finest varieties are high-altitude plants from the Andes.

All three genera conform to the same habit of growth, producing a creeping rhizome with each season’s growth and a series of thick, fleshy leaves. The flower spike is always produced from the centre of the latest growth and can bear one or many flowers. The blooms are some of the most striking and unique in the orchid kingdom. The lip has evolved into a pouch, which attracts and catches insects merely for pollination, not for food. The shoe-shaped pouch has earned these plants the common name of slipper orchid. They are sometimes also known as the virgin’s slipper and the Canadian species is called the moccasin flower by the native people.

Paphiopedilums
Interest in the paphiopedilums has existed since the start of orchid cultivation. Particular favourites were the cool-growing, high-altitude species from the Himalayas, namely P. insigne, P. spiceruinum, P. villosum and P. fairrieanum. These orchids were grown in huge quantities for the cut flower trade.

The natural habitat of these species can range from rocky outcrops on limestone cliffs to places high up in the trees, where huge clumps can grow as epiphytes. The spectacular, multi-flowering species from Borneo are somewhat slow growing but when they do bloom, the reward is well worth the wait. This applies especially to P. rothschildianum and P. sanderianum.

Hybridization has produced some striking new flowers only hinted at in the original species. New species are still being discovered and in the last 20 years there has hardly been a year when a new surprise has not materialized. Many have come from China, North Vietnam and Laos. Hybridizers are beginning to work with these exciting new shapes and colours and have amazed the orchid world.

Phragmipediums
Phragmipediums from central South America can be found either as epiphytes on trees or growing on rocks overhanging river banks. The tallest of them is P. longifolium, whose spike can reach 1.5 m (5 ft), producing a continuous display of flowers but never more than two or three on a stem at any one time. As the old flower drops off, the new one will open and in this manner some spikes will continue to bear flowers for two years. A large specimen plant will be sending up new spikes all the time, so the plant is never out of bloom.

In England, the Victorians experimented with hybridizing in this group and produced several very interesting plants, but because the range of species and colours is limited compared with the paphiopedilums, they are mostly pale green and brown, with the odd exception producing pink blooms. The main attraction is their long, thin, ribbon-like petals, hanging down on each side of the bloom, especially in P. caudatum, which has the longest petals of all.

After early experiments in hybridizing, performed without any knowledge of genetics, it was found that the offspring were sterile and from then on all breeding ceased. But in the last 20 years of the 20th century, a new interest was kindled in these plants for two reasons, first, the discovery of a new species high up in the Andes called P. besseae, which produces brilliant red flowers, a colour totally unimagined in this group of pastel orchids and secondly, a better understanding of genetics and the ability to adapt those plants that were unable to breed. The result is that Phragmipedium breeding has taken off at a pace, crossing P. besseae with all the other known species to produce a whole new range of shapes, sizes and colours.

Care and Cultivation
The culture of cypripediums is exceedingly slow. Being such cold-growing plants, if grown under glass they should be in an alpine house maintained at just frost-free temperatures. When they are cultivated, usually in herbaceous borders, they are capable of making large clumps in time. Paphiopedilums and phragmipediums will grow well in a similar setup with a minimum temperature of about 15 °C (60 °F) on the coldest of winter nights. The plants should always be shaded from direct sunlight and be kept evenly moist all the year round. Paphiopedilums will grow well in a bark or bark and peat mix, whereas phragmipediums seem to do very well in rockwool, as they like permanent moisture.

This is a large genus which, over the years, has been divided and reclassified several times, originally being part of the genus Epidendrum. Recently it has had more taxonomic changes, with many of the species being placed in the genus Prosthechea. However, they are still widely known as encyclias. They have been bred for many years and for the purpose of hybridization they are recorded as epidendrums when making crosses between genera. Hybrids within the genus itself are few and far between, but when crossed with other related plants, such as the cattleyas, they produce some wonderfully colourful hybrids and small, compact plants.

One of the best known of the encyclias is E. cochleata, which was one of the earliest orchids introduced into cultivation in the West, as long ago as 1763. This attractive plant has a relatively large pseudobulb and in cultivation it can remain in flower throughout the year. The shape of its lip has earned it the name of cockleshell orchid, but it is also known as the octopus orchid because of its unusual dangling ‘tentacles’. This is a slow-growing orchid, but in spite of that, it is reasonably adaptable to a variety of conditions. Most of the species require generally cool conditions, but some will flourish just as well in the intermediate or hot house.

As encyclias are widely distributed, they are equally diverse in their cultural requirements. The cool varieties do not have strict growing and resting seasons as do some other orchids. The best rule is to follow the plant’s pattern of growth, and if it decides to grow throughout the winter, then it should be watered, even if the one beside it prefers to rest with less water until the new roots and growth commence.

For more informations about gardening tips visit Reader’s Digest.ca .

Odontoglossums and their related genera are widespread throughout Central and South America. They are mostly high-altitude plants, requiring cool conditions, from the Andes, crossing the Panama isthmus and as far north as Mexico. Recent taxonomic changes within these closely related plants have resulted in many of the families being split up, with the creation of new genera. For example, all the former odontoglossums that came from Guatemala and Mexico have now been regrouped as Lemboglossum, Rossioglossum and so on, leaving only the plants found in the Andes, mosdy from Colombia and Ecuador, in the genus Odontoglossum.

The area from which these orchids originate is cool cloud forest which, although dose to the equator, is never too hot during the day and always cool at night. These orchids are, therefore, difficult to grow in tropical countries. In Britain, the Victorian growers fell in love with the odontoglossums and called them the queen of orchids. At one time they were being imported at a rate of 100,000 plants each year, many of which perished on the long sea journey from South America, or failed through lack of understanding in overheated Victorian greenhouses.

O. crispum fascinated them the most as it came in several hundred different varieties, from pure white to heavily spotted yellow and maroon flowers. Because of the inaccessibility of the high valleys in which these orchids grew, each variety had evolved separately in its own isolated environment.

As well as O. crispum, O. pescatorei, O. hallii and O. triumphans were among the orchids that were available in unlimited quantities at the turn of the century. The over-collecting of these plants led to their near extinction in the wild and, sadly, very few of them are to be found in cultivation today.

The Hybrids
The greatest demand is for Odontoglossum hybrids that have been crossed with related genera such as Miltonia, Oncidium and Cochlioda, which not only increase the range of colour, shape and size but give a more vigorous plant. When two genera, such as Odontoglossum and Cochlioda, are crossed together, the two names are used to produce the name for the new plants; in this case, the resulting hybrids are called Odontioda. When such a hybrid is crossed with another genus, for example Miltonia, the new plants are named after the breeder, in this case Vuylstekeara, named after Charles Vuylsteke. All intergeneric hybrids arising from three or more natural genera are named after a person in this way.

The introduction of Brassia or Oncidium into the blood of such hybrids will make the resulting plants more heat tolerant, which means that some of them can be grown in Florida and other places that would normally be too warm for the pure odontoglossums.

Cultivation and Care
A strong, healthy, mature plant should consist of four to six pseudobulbs each with a strong new growth. These orchids do not make enormous specimen plants and will seldom grow at the same time as they flower. Each pseudobulb consists of two basal leaves and one or two terminal leaves from the top, the flower spike coming from the base or side of the pseudobulb.

Due to their origins, living in almost perpetual spring-like weather, these orchids know little or no seasonal change and therefore grow continuously without a definite flowering season. In fact, most of these plants will grow and flower on a nine-month cycle, so they seldom bloom at the same time two years running, with the result that a mixed collection of the Odontoglossum Alliance will give flowers almost all the year round.

These orchids are best grown in a cool greenhouse with a minimum night-time temperature of 10 °C (50 °F), with a variable daytime rise depending on the weather. From early spring onwards, the greenhouse should be well shaded to prevent overheating and scorching of the foliage, especially on hot summer days. The floor and staging should be kept constantly moist to provide an even humidity; combine this with fresh air to give a buoyant atmosphere.

This genus can be roughly divided into two groups, the evergreen and the deciduous plants. Firstly, the evergreen calanthes produce a creeping rhizome either just on or just below the surface of the soil. Along the rhizome grow two, three or four leaves from a very small pseudobulb. The new growth appears at the end of the rhizome and quickly matures into fresh foliage, usually flowering at the same time. The flower spikes stand upright, well clear of the leaves, which is typical of any terrestrial orchid. The sprays of flowers come in a range of colours, from browny yellows to bright gold, through to white.

The very first orchid hybrid was created from two evergreen Calanthe species. It was produced in 1856, between C. masuca and C. furcata, and was named Calanthe Dominii. The Victorians grew large quantities of calanthes. Cool-growing and requiring little or no artificial heat, large pans of these plants would decorate their huge conservatories. Sadly, today they are out of fashion. The exception is in the Far East, particularly Japan, where they have always been popular and remain so today. A visitor to a Japanese orchid show will see large displays of modern hybrids, all beautifully grown.

The deciduous calanthes come from a similar part of the world but are not as widely distributed. Their vegetative parts are very different, producing large, stout pseudobulbs, silvery white in colour. They carry two or three enormous terminal leaves which are extremely thin as they are not designed to last for long.

The season starts in the spring with the new growth; at this point the plants should be repotted. Give copious amounts of water and fertilizer throughout the summer and you will find that nothing grows as fast as a Calanthe. The pseudobulbs become fully grown in record time and on completion the flower spike, or spikes, will appear from the base. At this time the leaves deteriorate rapidly and will soon be shed. When this happens, reduce the watering and then eventually stop altogether. The older pseudobulb from which the new growth came will deteriorate but can sometimes be used for propagation. The flower spikes will continue to grow all through the autumn and winter, relying on the energy stored in the pseudobulb. The flower stems can reach 1 m (3 ft) in height with blooms ranging from white, cream with red lips, through various shades of pink to the deepest reds. Once in flower they are extremely long lasting, remaining in perfect condition for many months. This was why they were popular with the Victorians, who brought them indoors for displaying. As the plants have lost their leaves and most of their roots by then, watering is not necessary. As soon as the flowers have finished, the spikes are removed and the spring growth is ready to commence.

One hundred years ago, when calanthes were at their most popular, there were many varieties. Hybridization had increased and the selection was large. These orchids then went out of fashion, but a few plants lingered on in private collections until the 1980s, when a renewed interest led to further hybridizing. The result is that today we have a larger range of shapes and sizes than ever before, and those with the necessary space will find them most rewarding to grow.

Lycaste Orchids

These orchids usually flower during their resting season and the best hybrids produce a profusion of blooms from around the base of the leading pseudobulb. Each flower is borne on a single stem and it is possible to have 20 or so blooms from one pseudobulb. These large, attractive flowers are often highly scented. During the flowering season it is best to keep the plants on the dry side, which enables the blooms to last longer and prevents spotting.

Lycaste Orchids

The new growth will quickly appear when flowering has finished, or sometimes even at the same time. In the growing season, give plenty of water and fertilizer to encourage as large a pseudobulb as possible before the season’s growth is completed. When resting begins, give less water, although there are no hard-and-fast rules as they will not all grow in the summer and all rest in the winter. If it is growing, water it; if it is resting, don’t.

Anguloa Orchids

The soft, tender leaves make this orchid susceptible to aphid attack. It does not like to be sprayed with any form of insecticide, as foliage burn will result, so using water and a sponge is the best way to control this pest.

Most famous of all the species is L. skinnerii, sometimes known as L. virginalis, a species from Guatemala with huge pink flowers. It is seldom seen in cultivation today but at one time was so popular that collections would be made of all the different colour forms, from pure white and soft pink to the darkest of rose-coloured blooms. Other species include L. aromatica and L. cruenta, with their golden-yellow sepals and greenish petals. The greenhouse will be filled with their perfume.

Anguloa Orchids

Some terrestrial species arise in South America and these have to grow in competition with many other plants on the ground. Because of this, they have developed long foliage and equally long flower stems. One of these is L. locusta, which has dark green flowers.

Closely related to Lycaste is the genus Anguloa. These plants are mostly restricted to the higher altitudes of the Andes, Ecuador, Colombia and Peru. Their vegetative parts and habit of growth are the same as the lycastes but they are somewhat more robust. They make larger plants and their big foliage at the height of the growing season makes them very demanding on the greenhouse space available. Their cup-shaped flowers are borne on single stems, but never open fully. This has earned them the name of tulip orchid. The best known is A. clowesii, with its brilliant yellow, strongly scented flowers. There are numerous other species with white and pink flowers.

These two genera have been extensively hybridized since the earliest times, producing both hybrids within their own genera and intergeneric hybrids where members of the two different groups have been crossed together. The results are some outstandingly beautiful orchids, which are greatly sought after. These make excellent houseplants, thriving well on a windowsill in a cool room while resting, then being given warmth and light during the growing season. Their delicate foliage should be protected from direct sunlight through glass, to prevent scorching.

Before you go rushing out into your garden to tear out your rue, and any other hazardous plant, it is worth considering the true dangers of hazardous herbs. Certainly, not all herbs are ‘safe’: but very few are life threatening, and most of them are growing in the wild.

Responsible organizations such as the Herb Trade Association police the labeling of their plants, and herbs such as rue are clearly labeled at the retailers with warnings about the effects they may have on some people. The fact that rue does not affect all types of skin is valid just as medicinal herbs do not necessarily work in the same way for every individual, then so it is with hazardous plants. Poisonous plants, however, do affect everyone in exactly the same way — and they are dangerous.

If you are in the habit of picking wild berries, or making tisanes from wild plants, it is as well to identify your plants very carefully. The umbelliferal family in particular is a minefield when it comes to poisons. Goutweed, wild angelica, hedge parsley, cow parsnip and sea carrot have a striking similarity to fools parsley, wild chervil, hemlock and hemlock water dropwort. These last four plants are extremely dangerous. The Henbane, Hyoscyanms niger, grows in sandy, waste places, very often near the sea. It is so toxic that its use in medicine is now severely restricted. The effect of henbane on the nervous system can be deadly. The fetid smell of this downy plant gives some indication of its poisonous nature.

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Poisonous herbs include Aconite, Black bryony, Buttercup, Columbine, Baneberry, Deadly nightshade, Fool’s parsley, Foxglove, Dog’s mercury, Hemlock, Hemlock water dropwort, Henbane, Ivy, Laburnum, Meadow saffron, Mistletoe, Spindle tree, White bryony, Black nightshade, and Yew.

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You can buy ready-made metal or plastic arches: the stems simply hook onto them, so there’s no need to tie them in place. Buy one that’s as wide as possible for the available space. This ensures that the shoots and flowers will get as much sun as possible, and makes it easier to provide protection in winter. It can also make spring pruning easier. The arches are available in various sizes; some are freestanding, and others can be attached to a wall. Some can even be fitted neatly together to form a pergola.

Plant one climbing rose either side of the arch; ideally you should choose a vigorous variety such as ‘Sympathie’ or ‘Mme Alfred Carriere. ‘The New Dawn’, which has very flexible stems, is an excellent rambler to grow over an arch. Allow plenty of space either side of the rose: it needs an area of about 20 x 20 in (50 x 50 cm). Prepare the soil by digging it thoroughly, and make sure the rose is well watered and fed after planting.

Another way to display climbers and ramblers is to train them over a ready-made wire or plastic pyramid, or a home-made one built of treated wooden posts. The ideal height for a pyramid is around 10 ft (3 m) with a diameter at ground level of 3-5 ft (1-1.5 m). Make sure it’s firmly anchored in the soil to protect it from autumn gales, and include some cross-pieces to which the shoots can be tied. Climbing roses can also be grown on an arch-shaped or rectangular trellis. This should be fitted so it’s at least 6 in (15 cm) away from the wall. Roses grown on a hot south-facing wall will require extra feeding and plenty of water to get them established. Roses thrive better on pergolas because they allow air to circulate all around the plants and keep them healthier.

Buying

Visit any Toronto florists in early spring for your best selection of Rhododendron plants. Choose a robust plant that appears full and healthy.

Planting

1. Choose the correct site to grow your Rhododendrons. An ideal location will have partial sun exposure. Because they are susceptible to wind damage, choose a location that is sheltered from strong winds.

2. Dig a hole approximately 29 inches wide and 18 inches deep. To improve drainage and add much needed acidity to the soil, lay a 1 inch layer of pine bark in the bottom of your hole.

3. Gently remove the plant from its container. Supporting the root ball, transfer to your freshly dug soil. Use the soil to fill in around the root ball.

4. Water well then cover with about 2 inches of mulch.

Maintenance

1. Rhododendrons love moisture. Keep your plant well watered, especially during extended rain-free periods. You will know when your Rhododendron is thirsty because of its drooping leaves. Spray the roots with a garden hose or use a sprinkler system to water.

2. Pruning young Rhododendrons will promote full growth as your plant matures. Prune in the early spring. Pruning an established plant however, may reduce your number of blooms the following year. Once your Rhododendrons have reached maturity, letting them grow as desired will ensure big beautiful blooms year after year.

3. Pests are not a common problem for Rhododendrons, but mealy bugs may be attracted to your plant’s sweet smell. If you notice white cotton like masses or sooty black mold on your plant’s leaves, apply horticultural oil during the summer. In the winter, dormant oil will smother the following year’s infestation. Both products can be found at your local nursery.

Winterizing

Because Rhododendrons are evergreen, there isn’t much you need to do to care for your plant during the winter months. Reduce watering in late autumn. If you have had a particularly dry fall, water your Rhododendrons after your first frost. Be sure to protect from any strong or damaging winter winds.

With proper care and a little attention, your Rhododendrons will continue to bring beauty to your yard for years to come.

By: Steven Rosen